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Share with you such topics as favorite fishing spots, favorite techniques, rigging tips, product information, and some great pictures taken from the tournament trail also up-to-date patterns for catching fish at the tournament locations visited. Got a question about a boat, lure or fishing spot E-Mail us and we will respond the team fishes from the best, with the best, and at the hottest spots in the quest for Monster Walleyes.

Mark MartinMark Martin Tommy SkarlisTommy Skarlis
Sam AndersonSam Anderson Tony Puccio
Ted Takasaki 1998 PWT ChampTed Takasaki Bob Riege Outdoor writerBob Riege
Greg HorokyGreg Horoky Gary EngbergGary Engberg
Mike Peluso pro walleye fisherman and hockey playerMike Peluso Sam Forbes outdoor writer and tournament anglerSam Forbes
Phil RolfePhil Rolfe Randy TylerRandy Tyler
Mike Mladenik walleye fishing pro, guide and outdoor writer from Wisconsin Mike Mladenik  Perry Good Perry Good
Dan Vinovich Tracker pro staff walleye fishermanDan Vinovich Tips from Ron Miltzow Ron Miltzow
Circle Hook Tips from Daiichi

Sam AndersonSam Anderson
Here is a tip to put in your bag of tricks.  When casting crankbaits in a river or lake area that has rip-rap or even sharp points with weeds and other debris, cast your bait up into the cover or rocks and crank down until you get a taught line.  Then pop the crankbait off the structure into the water.  Bass fisherman have been doing this for years and it does produce walleyes in stained water or low light conditions such as mornings and evenings.  You might lose some lures until you get the hang of this type of fishing but it is very effective for taking
some trophy fish.  Don't forget to check your line periodically to see if it has wear from the structure.
HEAVY FOR HEAVY'S
In cool fall waters where crank baits can have a devastating impact in producing large eyes may be a bit of a different technique that will promote hard strikes and big fish.
Recently while pre fishing a tournament I decided to run a 5 ounce bottom bouncer, spinner tipped with minnows at crank bait speeds. I zig zagged water where I graphed fish from 15 foot to 22 foot. The results where more than awesome. 
This technique produced continuos action and big fish. The vibration of the spinner running through the water a crank bait speeds promoted aggressive hard strikes and out produced cranks ten to one.
Next time you are working cranks try running a heavy bottom bouncer along side your crank and wait for great results.
Have a great season of fishing
Lake Sakakawea
Pure Fishing Guide Service
Contact Mike for more information
www.captainwalleye.com
701-572-6403 or e-mail captainwalleye@dia.net
Pure Fishing Guide Service
Storing Your Leaders
By Ron Miltzow

   Storing your leaders or snells in plastic bags works well, but I have found that I have trouble with the longer leads getting tangled, and are a pain in the neck to straighten out. I have seen method used by a few guys including myself that works very well.
   The materials you will need are:

1. 1 ½ inch diameter foam pipe insulation.
2. Used clear plastic tennis ball containers.

A quick easy soloution for storing spinners and leaders   Measure the length of the tennis ball containers and cut the pipe insulation so that it will fit inside the can while still being able to put the lid back on the can.
  Now, you can wrap your leads on the pipe insulation, starting with the loop end and ending with the hook, by imbedding it in the foam. This technique works great with any size leader, 1 ft. - 10feet. By using the clear plastic containers, you will be able to arrange your rigs by size, length, and color of jigs or blades, whatever you want! It also works great with 3-ways. I can get up to 1 dozen rigs neatly on 1 length of foam. Tackle boxes do not work well for storing the containers, but boats work great.
   When you have to make up a lot of rigs ahead of time and be able to keep them tangle free, this method is a definite plus.


Great outdoor fishing and hunting information for Illinois and surrounding communities.  Illinois Outdoors -dedicated to fishing and other outdoors sports in Illinois and those nearby places that Illinois sports enthusiasts often visit. CoHosted by Don Dziedzina & Rich Komar.  This bi-weekly studio show has guests from the fishing and outdoor industry, new and unusual products, fishing & outdoor tips by Ron Miltzow, and photo and tip contests where you can win FREE fishing tackle. This show is aired on AT&T Broadband out of the affiliates in Dolton (where it is taped), Hickory Hills and Orland Park.  This means approximately 60 communities from the O'Hare Airport and south get the show.  Days and times vary by community. 

Getting your Boat and Trailer Ready
By Ron Miltzow
 

   Boat Fishermen, now is the time to get your boat and trailer ready for the upcoming season.
Taking some time out now to prepare your equipment, will enable you to fish a lot more during the season
    What I like to do is start with the trailer. First, pull the tires off and check the bearings, make sure they do not have any abnormal wear,  that they are properly greased and the seals are not leaking. If you have a lot of grease on the inside or outside of the wheels, you have a blown seal. Next, check the tires, if the tire tread looks like it is wearing unevenly, this is usually a sign of low air pressure. Make sure you fill them up to the recommended pressure. The sidewall of the tire should be checked for dry rotting. Also, check the lights, safety chain hook up, and don't forget your winch rope or strap for frays. Make sure your tie downs are in good condition. Remember after you launch your boat the first time, take a minute to look at your bunks, rollers and frame, check for cracks worn carpeting, and rust .The last thing I would recommend is to take along extra fuses. 

   Here is a small checklist for things to check on your boat:

1. State sticker is current.
2. Fuel lines must be in good shape with no worn spots.
3. Warning alarms and lights have to work, especially for engine.
4. Night lights.
5. Mooring lines, towropes.
6. Fire Extinguisher. It's also a good idea to carry a fire extinguisher in your car.
7. Life Jackets
8. Whistle, Horn, and Up to date flares.
9. Maintain engine and prop.
10. First aid kit.
11. Anchors.
12. Marine Radio.
13. Bilge pump
14. Small toolbox.
15. Batteries. (Fill with distilled water only). Don't forget to charge.
16. Make sure the drain plug is in!
17. Fishing tackle (duh)

     A good idea is to take the U.S. Coast Guard Auxiliary Skills and Seamanship coarse, which is offered all across the country, and the cost free. The course is great for kids, and you will get money off your boaters insurance. 
    If you are a boat owner, you know that any of these things that I have mentioned, can and will go wrong, or break, or be missing at one time or another. Taking care of these things ahead of time will enable you to spend a lot more trouble free time on the water. And, I know I would rather be fishing!



Rod Care Tip 
By Ron Miltzow

With the growing cost of graphite fishing rods, and the amount of equipment needed, especially in walleye tournament fishing, good rod care is becoming increasingly more important. Everyone at one time or another will bang their rods against another rod, drop it on some hard object, or just plain abuse it when the fishing gets hot. With a graphite rod it is very important not to put a chip in it, and create a weak spot.
  Trapped in the house in the winter is a good time to take care of your equipment. What I like to do is start with the blank. Take a soft rag with some non abrasive car wax, like 2001. Apply it to your blank and gently rub all the grime off. What this will do is, not only clean the blank but also put a protective coating on the rod finish, so the next time it comes in contact with another object, the wax will take the abuse instead of the rod. The more coatings of wax applied the better. To restore the original shine on the blank, simply spray a little furniture wax on a rag and then wipe it on the rod and buff. \
   Using soft scrub can clean up foam or cork handles. Applying the liquid on a rag and rubbing gently seems to work best. After rubbing for a short time you will see the dirt disappear, restoring the handles to look brand new. Also you will want to re-seal the cork handle with light application of acrylic floor wax and then let it dry for a couple of minutes. This does not have to be done on foam.
   Remember to check the guides for worn inserts, and also the legs of the guides for abnormal bends. A rod builder can fix these things, and it won't be that expensive.
   Take the time out now to check over your equipment, because when the weather breaks, I know I would rather be fishing!


Great outdoor fishing and hunting information for Illinois and surrounding communities.  Illinois Outdoors -dedicated to fishing and other outdoors sports in Illinois and those nearby places that Illinois sports enthusiasts often visit. CoHosted by Don Dziedzina & Rich Komar.  This bi-weekly studio show has guests from the fishing and outdoor industry, new and unusual products, fishing & outdoor tips by Ron Miltzow, and photo and tip contests where you can win FREE fishing tackle. This show is aired on AT&T Broadband out of the affiliates in Dolton (where it is taped), Hickory Hills and Orland Park.  This means approximately 60 communities from the O'Hare Airport and south get the show.  Days and times vary by community.


Ted Takasaki 1998 PWT ChampTed Takasaki
Spinner rigs I

Spinner rigs combine flash and vibration with the natural scent and feel of live bait. The Lindy X Change System makes them simple to use. Clevises easily snap into place so you can change the size or color of your Lindy Hatchet or Colorado style blades in a matter of seconds.  No more need to retie the entire rig every time you make a change. Lindy Little Joe applied the same X Change System principle to bottom bouncers. Weights come in various sizes so you can choose the right one to maintain bottom contact. They are held in place by a plastic grommet and slip on or off the wire fast. 



Spinner rigs II

The unique shape of Lindy Hatchet blades creates a fish-attracting vibration at slower speeds than other blade styles. Start with metallics of gold, silver or bronze when the sun is shining; use fluorescent colors when it's cloudy or in dingy water. Experiment and let the fish tell you what they want.  If action stops, change up.



 Scout before you go

 The most important time of your fishing trip comes before you launch.  Locate fish by visiting bait shops and boat ramps to talk to guides and local fishermen about where big schools of walleyes can be found.  Buy a topographical map of the body of water and have them mark the spots.  Note the type of structure that the fish appear to be utilizing and find similar spots on the water.  Ask for details about the tactics that are producing. 



Dan Vinovich Tracker pro staff walleye fishermanDan Vinovich
Changing Leader Lengths 
Most people use a standard leader length of about 48 inches.  This length of leader is sufficient for most 3-way applications.  However, changing your leader length can make a big difference in putting more fish in the boat on a given day.  When I start a search pattern trolling 3-way rigs in rivers, I always set each of our rods with different leader lengths.  One rod will be at 24 inches.  The rest I will increase the leader length 24 inches all the way to 10 feet.  The fish will tell you where they want the baits.  You simply change the rest of the rods to the length that is catching fish.  The same holds true with the dropper length.  A good rule of thumb to go by is the colder the water, the shorter the dropper.  As water temperature increases, so should the dropper length.

Dan Vinovich Tracker pro staff walleye fishermanDan Vinovich
Putting More Action Into Your 3-Way Stickbait Trolling

When you cast crankbaits, do you usually cast and reel?  No, you change up your lure speed and pause the bait.  This change of speed imitates a dying or fleeing bait fish, which, in turn, causes the natural instinct of the predator to strike.  You can add this kind of action into your 3-way presentations by changing the size and the shape of the weight.  For example, if you are running a 1 oz. pencil weight on a 3-way rig, the weight is sliding along the bottom, keeping the crankbait swimming with a non stop forward action.  Now if I change the shape of the weight to a bell sinker, the action changes. The weight catches momentarily on the bottom.  Thus, the rod loads up with a slight bend.  As the weight frees itself, the rod springs forward causing the crankbait to lunge forward.  As the weight catches on bottom again, the bait pauses before lunging forward.  Now change the weight to a pyramid style sinker and the weight snags up a little longer, causing the rod to load up a little more, and thus, a longer pause and a sharper lunge forward of the bait.  By increasing the weight of any given sinker, you can vary the length of the pause and sudden lunge of the bait.  Try this the next time you are trolling crankbaits on 3-way rigs.  I am sure it will help you put more fish in the boat.



Sam Anderson

The key to locating walleyes in the river in the fall and early winter starts with locating a series of obstacles and then allowing your bait or lure to present itself in a natural manner so the walleye can race from behind the obstruction to acquire the offering and then race back into the slack water area to digest his meal and await another.
 In the fall of the year the turbidity of the water subsides and walleyes are more visually stimulated as they see food floating by the slack water areas.  This is not to say that all walleyes see their food before the strike and in some cases they strike more out of vibration and smell than they do from visual identification.
 One reason that I like to use jigs while fishing for fall walleyes in a river system is the control an angler has.  Vertically jigging for walleyes gets my blood pumping and believe me on those cool crisp fall days when it would be nice to be on shore burning a campfire or dried leaves, you need all of your blood pumping just to stay warm. With the proper head design and weight, jigs are the most versatile of all river techniques, from the shallowest flooded cover to the deepest, fastest current.
Be sure to visit Sams new website www.samanderson.com



Dan Vinovich Tracker pro staff walleye fishermanDan Vinovich
2 Motor Method For Wing Dams

 Trying to hold on the upstream face of a wing dam can result in drained trolling motor batteries and hard feelings when the wind is blowing and the current is strong. To conserve power, I will start up my Mercury 9.9 kicker motor on my Targa 2000.  By using my kicker as my main base of power and steering with my bow mount electric, I can maintain a precise presentation and not drain my batteries, enabling me to hold on the wing dam all day if I choose.  This will result in more fish because the fish always turn on when the batteries are going dead!!!!


Winterize Your Outboard and Boat

NOTE: Avoid injury due to accidental engagement of your prop, we recommend
you remove the prop from your motor before winterizing.

If your motor is water cooled; running your outboard without an adequate
source of cooling water will result in severe damage to your outboard!

1. Fill your fuel tank and add a conditioner. Mix thoroughly

2. Run motor for about 5 minutes at fast idle to ensure the gas with
stabilizer has entered the carburetors and floats. Make sure you use a
flusher over water intakes to keep engine cool check to see if water is
coming out of the telltale.

3. Use engine tune up spray on your engine before winterizing. The spray
works better on a warm engine. Make sure engine is off.

4. With engine running fog in the carb's with a good grade outboard fogging
oil.

5. Fog until engine stalls. Make sure you alternate between carb's or better
yet use two cans of fogging spray. Do this in a well ventilated area. It
will be smoky.

6. Change gear oil. Put a pan, to catch the oil, under the lower screw hole.
Unscrew the lower hole first. Then open the upper one and the gear oil will
drain into the pain. Check your oil, it should not be cloudy, that indicates
water in the lower unit. Which means you need new gaskets. Metal shavings
mean gear problems.

7. Refill by inserting the new gear oil tube spout in the bottom hole and
squeezing until oil over flows out of the top hole. Keep pressure on the
tube or quickly the lower hole to keep the oil from pouring out. Replace the
top screw first then the bottom screw. Be careful not to cross thread the
screws. Tighten the screws. Do not over do it and strip the threads. Your
screws are steel and your gear case aluminum.

NOTE: It's easier with the quart or larger containers and the small hand
pump designed for them. The pump has a hose and a fitting on the end that
will screw into the lower hole. Then you pump until oil comes out the top
hole, replace the top plug, remove the hose, and replace the lower plug.

8. Grease all motor zerks.

9. Remove fishing line around the prop thrust washer.

10.Disconnect your batteries. Clean the terminals with baking soda solution,
dry thoroughly and Charge Them Up! If this can be done in a warm
environment, so much the better. Put Vaseline over the cleaned terminals.
Store them in a well ventilated area, preferably above the freezing point.
You should also recharge the battery once a month during the off-season to
prevent electrical discharge and degradation of the electrolytes.

11.Store outboard in down position if possible. If not, and you're in an
area that freezes, then cover exhaust outlet in center of prop so water
won't collect and freeze.

Other Considerations:

12.Grease trailer hubs and bearings.

13.Wash and wax the hull.

14.Inspect all nuts and bolts.

15.Block up trailer axle, remove the boat weight from the tires.

16. Remove drain plug, this allows drainage during storage outside.

17.Open all hatches. Place an open bag or two of charcoal in the bilge and
in any other enclosed areas. It won't hurt the opened area's either.

Boat control and rigging under the toughest of conditions by



Mark Martin Walleye fishing articlesMark Martin
Jigs and rigs are some of the most common and some of the oldest methods of catching walleyes.  The definition of a rig is misunderstood by many beginning walleye fisherman.  It’s easy though if you fish with a hook and splitshot, you’re riggin.  If you push the splitshot down so it touches the hook you’re jiggin.
It does get a bit more complicated from there.  The tackle industry has a huge variety of rigs and jigs to choose from and many are designed for special situations and conditions.  Each one is a different tool for a different job.
Through any fishing year, professional and amateur anglers will catch millions of walleyes with this endless variety of rigs.  On of my obvious favorites and certainly the most versatile and easily altered rig is Northlands Roach rig.  Roach rigs are made up of a quick change “foot shaped sinker,” a bobber stop and bead stop which allow fisherman to adjust the lead length.  The rig also has a swivel; a leader (anywhere from 24” to 10 to 12’ long) and a hook which can be a plain hook and bead, or a floater like a gumdrop of Floating Foxee.
During a tournament in 1993 on Mille Lacs lake Minnesota Gary Roach and myself took first and second place with this rig and some special boat control techniques.
We were fishing a very large mud flat and active fish were located on the edge of the flat between 27 and 31 feet of water.  Nasty weather and heavy waves forced us to use special boat handling techniques to control our position and presentation.  Two to four foot waves tossed the bow of my boat like a bucking bronco.
I filled my bow live well with water, plugged the outlet holes and let water overflow into the bilge to add ballast to solve the problem.  It helped but it still wasn’t enough to give adequate boat control.
So I attached a sea anchor to the bow.  This acted like a big fist gripping the water, when a wave tried to throw the boat up the sea anchor pulled it down.  The bow slowly rose only a few inches with a big wave instead of jumping several feet.
Now that my up and down movement was under control, I needed forward and reverse control.  The big 50# thrust Motorguide electric proved all the control I needed.
This technique is one that only a pro or very experienced boater should try.  I wouldn’t even attempt it with any other boat than my high-sided well-constructed Lund tournament Pro V.
The walleyes were grouped in pockets along the edge.  The “meal of the day” was a big black shiny and very lively leech.  By using a 10 to 12 foot long leader on my roach rig and a very light weight Tru Turn hook with a small red bead in front, we gave the leech the freedom to swim up down and around.
We moved very slowly or remained motionless while fishing a spot.  By holding the roach rig sinker six inches to 2-4 feet off bottom and letting the leeches lively action antagonize the walleyes we could cover from 6 inches to about three to four feet off of bottom where the fish were located.
To keep our long leaders from tangling with each other, I sat in the bow of my Lund while my partner worked the back.  I controlled the path of the boat with slow continus bursts of thrust from the electric motor so it would barely move along the drop off edge.
My presentation was on the deep side while my partner worked the shallow side.  If the walleyes were shallow or deep one of us would catch fish.
If conditions would have been different, and had the fish been holding tightly on the bottom, I would have shortened the leader so the leech was under tighter control and closer to the bottom.  Doing so is as easy as sliding the rubber bobber stop up or down the line.
A couple of important tips about rig fishing.  Keep the line angle at 45 degrees.  In other words keep the rig below your boat or as close to the boat as possible and letting the rig down to bottom slowly so that your snell doesn’t tangle back up with your main line.  Put your bait in the water followed by the sinker.  Then let it down two to three feet and stop.  Repeat until the sinker reaches bottom.  You will then know your presentation is lad out without tangles.
I’ve had partners who plunked it over the side of the boat and let it plunge to the bottom.  Twenty minutes later reel up to check the bait and have a tangled mess.
For more great tips like this check out Marks book
Year' Round Walleyes  by Mark Martin Walleyes Inc The internet choice for serious walleye fisherman form

Sam Anderson
Once fish have been located and the crankbait bite falls off, I will offer them a selection of light jigs.  I usually start off with 1/16 or 1/8 ounce Fuzzy Grub, tipped with a minnow, leech or a nightcrawler.  As the fish tend to move deeper I will switch to a live-bait rig or  a Hatchet Harness Spinner attached to a Bottom Bouncer so I tick the bottom and stay out of the rocks. Be sure to visit Sams new website www.samanderson.com

Sam Anderson
To slow down your lure presentation a little use a jig tipped with a minnow.  But don't get stuck in a slow pattern.  Utilize extremes.  Rip the jig back to the boat on one retrieve, then work the jig slow, bouncing it along the bottom on the next retrieve.  My favorite jig in this situation is a 1/4 ounce Fuzzy Grub jig tipped with a minnow.  I prefer the Fuzzy Grub because it is round and I can easily attach a stinger hook to the minnow and up my chances of catching a finicky walleye.  When in doubt if you have contact with the bottom, increase the size of your jig and minnow.  You might get hung up more, but you might also have a wallhanger on your hands.
Be sure to visit Sams new website www.samanderson.com

Perry Good Pro walleye fishermanPerry Good Presents Slip Bobber Techniques
The slip bobber is part of your live bait delivery system and you will need to make adjustments if you want your bait to be presented to the fish in a "natural manner."  To use your slip bobber properly you will first have to determine depth.  You might use your sonar to determine depth, or attach a weight to your line and lower it into the water until your line shows slack, but I prefer to use the old method (revised).  I first put on a "rubber snubber", like the ones in the Northland Tackle Roach Rigs.  I attach this rubber snubber ahead of my slip bobber on the line, then I attach an additional rubber snubber to the line after the slip bobber.  Then as my weight and hook combination, I attach a Northland Tackle jig-a-bit or a bob-a-bit.  If the slip bobber lays on it's side then I readjust the (float) bobber so that it rides off the particular structure from 1 ft.  to 6 inches.  If I am using slip bobbers for walleyes I like to attach a 1/16 or 1/32 ounce jig to the business end of the line instead of a plain hook.  I like the color that a jig head adds plus I need to add very little extra weight to pull the line down to the preset depth when using a jig head.  If you use this  slip bobber method, it will enable you to jig your bait vertically without positioning yourself over the top of the structure.  With little or no wind you'll have action on the bobber.  This can easily be achieved by sweeping the rod about a foot at a time.  It might seem simple, and it is, but the results will astound you. 



Sam Anderson  Boat control can be defined as; the location and speed of a trolled lure is largely dependent on how you maneuver the boat that pulls it, and how you counteract elements that affect your speed and direction especially wind and current. One way that I have solved the problem with boat control is by using a sea anchor.  A sea anchor is a cone-shaped under water wind sock, similar to those at airports that detect changes in wind direction.  Drift Control sea anchors aid boat control in two ways.  First of all, they slow your drift in strong winds.  Secondly, you can use them to fine-tune subtle boat maneuvers in rough seas or heavy current. Be sure to visit Sams new website www.samanderson.com

Sam Anderson When fishing with live bait it's tough to beat a Lindy Rig.  Keep your bail open and a finger on the line as you slowly troll.  When you feel a pick-up, drop the line.  The slip sinker rig allows the fish to take the bait without feeling any weight.  You can vary the size of your sinker and hook, and change the length of the leader to match conditions.  Use a floating jig to lift your bait off the bottom.
Many types of artificial lures work for walleyes, but most fish are caught on live bait.  Most anglers prefer to use minnows in the spring and again in the fall.  Leeches and nightcrawlers are used during summer months, and will catch fish throughout the season.  Crayfish and live frogs work, too.  Remember, big baits often equal big fish.  If you are looking for a trophy use the largest minnows, leeches, or nightcrawlers you can find. Be sure to visit Sams new website www.samanderson.com



Sam Anderson . To catch shallow fish, I use my bow-mount MotorGuide trolling motors the choice of walleye fisherman to get as close to shore as possible.  I face into the current and cast upstream so the bait moves downstream.  This is essential because 90% of all fish in a river face into the current in order to feed.  When I make my first cast it is critical to present the bait to the feeding fish in a natural life like manner.  I will cast upstream as close to shore as possible, then I point my Quantum rods and Reels rod directly at shore.  This gives my  crankbait  a direct downstream run.  By extending my arm and using a long 7 foot rod I can get as close to shore as possible.  As the bait starts down river I will use my wrist to jerk or flick the bait causing it to dart and dive representing a wounded minnow.  As the bait approaches the boat I will also take in as much slack as possible to allow myself better feel and better hook setting leverage.
 My next couple of casts are going to be deeper.  Here, because the water tends to be deeper, I will change my presentation to more traditional casting.  My cast will be ahead of the boat and I will retrieve the lure with a bait bumping approach.  My next cast might be even deeper to see if the walleyes have moved out, but again it will be a normal cast and retrieve method. Under low-light conditions or in darker water, walleyes will be shallow 1 to 7 feet.  But it it's bright or there's a lot of boat traffic, they move deeper.
 When I am fishing along the riprap I use a method known as "slipping the current".  Basically this method allows the operator of the boat to stay in one spot or to drift downstream slowly by using the electric trolling motor.  I set my bowmount MotorGuide trolling motors the choice of walleye fisherman to match the speed of the current and occasionally I will increase the thrust to move up stream to new water.  Your electric trolling motor is important for you to use in this situation, because it provides a quiet approach to fishing fish in the shallows.  Where as a gas engine is likely to spook the fish and the method of staying in one place to combat the current with a gas engine is difficult at best. Be sure to visit Sams new website www.samanderson.com



Sam Anderson .When walleyes are holding tight to cover because of a change in water temperature or  barometric pressure, or because the water has suddenly risen  or fallen, it is essential to fish the walleyes in a vertical motion.  The problem may be that they are tight to cover and usually shallow, with adjacent deep pockets or holes near by, but not enough to position a boat over the top of them.
Therefore, a vertical presentation with a Thill float might do the trick.  It will allow the presentation of the bait over the top of the walleye (something that is important to remember is a walleye always feeds on food that is in front of them and just slightly above them).  The float should be set so that it will present the bait in a suspended offering, and once you find the depth you can work the shoreline around structure like stumps and points. Be sure to visit Sams new website www.samanderson.com

Greg Horoky on planer board techniques
A word of caution when using boards, when a fish picks up the bait be patient allow it to take the board back a considerable distance.  There is no need to hurry because the fish will set the hooks themselves.  Pick the rod from the rod holder and just crank in the board to the boat, your partner will release the board allowing you to fight the fish on long line. Don't set the hook you will knock the board off the line and you have to go pick up the board after you have landed the fish. The in-line planer board is one of the greatest innovations ever to enter the world of walleye fishing.  The little boards for a walleye fisherman is like that credit card they advertise on TV, never leave home without them. 


Fizzing Walleyes

  By MarkMartin

On either side of the anal hole you go two scales to the left or right and 5-7 scales forward.  Hold the fish upside down in the livewell holding the fizzing needle at a 45 degree angle as you go into the bladder air bubbles will start to come out leave the needle inserted untill all air bubbles are released , remove the needle and let the fish right itself. 


Gary Engberg Walleye fishing guide and tournament proGary Engberg

Tips for Early season Walleye Fishing

I'll give you some places to call and double check on conditions before leaving home.  Things change rapidly.
 

  • Try to use a four wheel drive vehicle if possible.  This prevents any problems on boat ramps remember boat ramps freeze late in the day and at night.
  • Watch for ice flows.  Sometimes big chunks of ice just below the surface can ram you, so keep your Life jacket on
  • Don't anchor sideways if you have ice flowing around you
Early season Techniques
  • Vertical Jigging (Use plastic and hair bucktails)
  • A plain hook with a bead (chartreuse or glow) and a slit shot
  • A split shot and floating jig head.  Vary Hook to splitshot distance from 6" to 2 feet
  • Three way rigs, use 3/4 to 1 ounce jig with minnow as the dropper line 6" to 12"  then use a floatingjig/minnow or floating crankbait on the other line.  This can be used as a dead rod in a rod holder or as you work up river on your bow mount
  • Early in the year tip all jigs and hooks with medium to smaller size chubs.  Hook under the lip and through a tail hook the minnow on the dead rod.
  • Saugers always seem to be in deeper water and in more current than walleyes
  • Night fishing and wading can be very productive.  Low light periods walleyes move shallow to feed.  Cast jigs and shad or twister tails and retrieve slowly.
  • Casting stickbaits with a tight wobble and split shot works well.
  • Try Manns Loud Mouth Jerk bait or Rapala floaters.  Shad colors seem to work best

  • Call anytime for update and information  Gary A Engberg 608-795-4208


Sam Anderson On any given cover the fish that are the most active and aggressive will be adjacent to the specific cover and will attack the bait as it comes close to the cover.  When walleyes hold tight to cover because of change in barometric pressure or fishing pressure the angler has to change or modify the presentation.  A perfect example of this is when you stop catching walleyes on a Lindy Little Joe Hatchet Harness and have to switch over to a light Lindy Little Joe Fuzz-E- Grub and a bobber combination to dabble in the weeds, instead of running a contour course on the weed edge. 

Tips for Setting and Choosing lures  (From Trolling Top to Bottom )  Courtesy of Bruce DeShano of 

When  clarity determines how close to bottom trailing cranks should be positioned.  If the water is murky, it's important to positon the bait within a foot of the bottom.  In clear water fish can easily see baits and will chase them much further off the bottom.  In clear water the angler enjoys the flexiblity of positioning baits two or three feet off of bottom.

When setting the lures let out line until you can feel the bait hitting bottom., then shorten the lead slightly so the bait runs just off bottom.  A line counter reel is invaluable for determining the ideal lead lengths and duplicating them once fish are caught  To find out more about getting a copy of this fine book click here



Gary Engberg  when running crankbaits behindOff Shore Tackle and Trolling products for serious walleye fisherman planer boards in large wind and waves it is imperative that you run with the waves and not against them.  this will make it much easier to see a strike, control the boat and the boards and also easier to reel in those monster fish. 

Perry Good Walleye Pro  Perry Good has this little bit of information when jigging for thoise monster eyes during first ice conditions try hooking the minnow in the tail.  This will allow the minnow to act more lively and help with those light biters who will get the whole minnow in there mouth before they are able to feel the hook. 

"Spinner Tying Tips" (From Trolling Top to Bottom )  Courtesy of Bruce DeShano of 

A lot of anglers enjoy tying their own spinners. Open water spinners can be tied with two single hooks , a single hook and a treble hook or two treble hooks.  Spinners rigged with a treble hook(s) hold better on large or powerful fish.  spinners should be tied using quality monafilament or a leader material such as Stren High impact Hard Mono Leader.  Braided lines can also be used to tie harnesses.  Choose eight to twelve test for walleye and bass and 14 to 20 pound test for trout, pike and other large fish.

Snelling a crawler harness is easy.  cut a piece of monofilament 60 inches long and thread one end approximately an inch through the hook eye to be snelled.  Pinch this short tag of line firmly against the hook shank with a thumb and forefinger and wrap the main line eight or ten times around the hook shank.  Hold these wraps firmly and then take the end of the main line and pass it back through the hook eye from th eopposite direction as before.  Hold the hook and wraps firmly untill the leader can be pulled tight.   Thread the second hook onto the leader and postion it approxiamtely six inches from the first hook.  Pinch the line against the hook shank and snell the hook in the same manner as the first.  This method of snelling is easy and allows the hooks to be postioned exactly the same distance apart every time.

Once the two hooks are snelled in place  add a dozen colorful beads, a clevise and the blade of choice and then tie on a quality ball bearing swivel. For open water fish size 4,5,6,7 and 8 Colorado or Indiana style blades are best.  A size No.2 hook and round bend treble hooks size # 6 and 4 are ideal for these harnesses.

I myself "Rock N' Randy Tyler" have found  great addition to this is a quality hook such as the  D16Z Wide Gap Bait hook (octopus style) red in a size six along with a  quick change clevise will add the extra sure fire hooking power and versatility of being able to change blades quickly will put more hawg walleyes in the boat such as this that I caught while bottom bouncing spinners on the Mississippi River In Lacrosse Wisconsin during the month of August  "slow days"   Remember at times when a certain size or color blade  is not producing you may need to change color, size and or speed to hook into some of these pig's  I changed not only color and size of blade but speed and that was the final touch that turned a nothing day of just looking at fish on my  350LMS and wondering why they would not go, into a one hour span that nailed six fish over 21" with this and another one weighting in at over seven lbs each.
To find out more about getting a copy of this fine book click here



Troubleshooting Tips from Mike McClelland

Take Notes on Patterns    Keep a journal on fall fishing every year.  Record the dates, locations water temperatures and weather conditions. These patterns will hold year after year.

What are your electronics telling you    Remember you don't have to see a number of fish on your electronics for a school of walleyes to be present.  Take into consideration that your transducers cone angle is generally 20 degrees.  this means if your in 230 feet of water your looking at only a 7 to 8' diameter circle.  For 20 degree transducers divide the depth by four to determine the diameter of circle your seeing on the bottom.  For a 16 degree transducer divide by 5.

Set the hook on anything you feel    When fall fishing set the hook whenever you feel anything .  What you may feel and think of as a wet leaf, a piece of debris or a weed could likely be a fish.  Many times late fall walleye hits are so light they go undetected.  Time and time again, what I thought ws a snag on the bottom turned out to be a big walleye. 



When fishing crank baits over weeds try this for the extra special effect. Get yourself a tube of Preparation H, yes thats right Preparation H. Smear it all over a Rapala Husky Jerk Bait bait and then sprinkle some silver construction glitter on it. Then cast to the top of the weeds using a twitching type of retrieve and any time the bait hits a weed give it a good snap. First off the Preparation H not only gives a good basis for the glitter to stick to and any time the bait hits weeds they fly off, giving the appearance of scales coming off a bait fish but preparation H is made from shark oil and is a great fish attractant similar to WD-40. Use a reel and rip pattern when doing this which gives an added effect of the scales coming off the crank bait. This tip come from the journals of Tommy Skarlis,Sam Anderson
While night fishing Lake Erie In-Fisherman Professional Walleye trail 1997 Champion Rick "Bigfoot" Lacourse along with touring pro's Rich Mealy and Bruce DeShano owner of Offshore tackle found some huge "eyes" spread out over 25 feet of water and need an effective way to nail them in a short period of time.  Using the 50/50 system they ran Rapala Husky Jerks behind 1ounce Offshore snap weights and Offshore side planer boards.  The problem was how to detect hits on the planer boards in the middle of the night. The key to there success was using Panduit wire ties and attaching neon glow sticks to the planer board flags this allowed them to see the boards even in the darkness and detect the slightest hit.


When searching for those monster eyes in large lake without an established pattern.  Try putting out four  planer boards with crankbaits set at four different depths and colors using a zig zag pattern trolling downwind in windy conditions upwind in normal conditions.  This will allow you to cover a lot of area and depths untill you find a pattern then switch all baits to that depth and color.  This approach will also let you cover different depths and bottom conditions if you decide to run the shoreline. 

This tip come from the journals of Tommy Skarlis,Sam Anderson . In High water river conditions try slipping the wing dams and current breaks using a medium action rod  with a three way swivel attatched as a dropper use a 3/4 to 1 ounce ball head jig with stinger and a large rosey red minnow if available to the other end of the threeway attatch a 4 foot mono leader with a  Husky Jerk.  This will allow you to work the top of the wing dam and also the front at the same time while keeping the bow of the boat faced into the current just slip the boat from the outer to the inner edge of the wing dam.


 Here are some quick and easy tips and quotes from In-Fisherman Professional  Walleye trail 1997 Champion Rick "Bigfoot" Lacourse.
"Never leave fish to find fish" When spotting fish on your electronics never leave the area when they are not hitting, change your methods, speeds, size or whatever untill you can trigger the fish to hit.  If I would of left the bridge in the PWT championship I probably would'nt have won the event though the fish were  not cooperating in the same manner they had done the two previous tournament days and during pre-fish  Let the fish dictate the pattern you will use, lures catch fisherman not fish. Downsize and slow down when the fish stop hitting.
When tying your own spinner rigs keep these things in mind they are very important. Use long shank single hooks when rigging for night crawlers and when the fish are hitting short use half a nightcrawler.  Also use bobber stops to adjust the location of the quick change clevise so you can change length and location of the blades.  Always use blades that at least on one side are shiny or hammered metal.  Painted blades will slow down the spinning of the blades.  I use 17lb Silverthread and premium Sampo swivels when tying my rigs.  In cooler water downsize the blade size but in warm water go to "thumper" blades (size # 4 and up).  Speed is relative to the fish but always try to keep the line at a 45 degree angle to the water. 

MarkMartin In some of the most unfavorable conditions Mark worked out a second place finish netting him $14,000.00 last year while fishing an In-Fisherman professional Walleye trail tournament in Dubuque Iowa under extreme high water river conditions on the mighty Mississippi River   Mark was able to weight in 23.88 lbs for the three day event that left many fine fisherman fishless.  Mark used a technique that not used very much but worked with a little finishing touch help from friend J.R. Mazure.   Mark trolled two areas of the river one at Mile marker 577 between catfish creek and mile marker 578. The other just down from nine mile island at mile marker 575.5 to 576.5. He ran at a speed between 1.5 and 2 M.P.H in the swift current  He trolled upstream on the edges of the main current but at times no more than 20 yards off shore, keying on areas where natural rock out croppings protruded and interupted the current. On Marks level wind reel on a Gary Roach 7'10" flippin stick he ran 20# Fireline ,  Mark then placed a 5 ounce sinker just below a three way swivel. Four feet back he ran a #9 floating Rapala behind a wire leader with a #3 chartreuse spinner and bead leader. Four feet above the swivel he tied in another swivel and ran a #8 Husky jerk 40 feet back.  All fish that were caught on the long leader were hand lined in which made for a lot of excitement. Day one Mark weighted in 4 fish at 8.38 lbs. Day 2 weighted in 6 fish for a total of 9.39 lbs and the final day Mark weighted in 4 more fish for a total of 23.88 lbs for the three day event. He also received the T-H Marine live release award and also took the third largest fish on day one at 4.43 lbs.  Mark also made note that the people from NAUTAMATIC MARINE SYSTEMS   TR-1 Autopilot and throttle control installed one of these units at the tournament and this helped him maintain control of the boat and also continue fishing in the tough current and windy conditions.

Here is a tip from Tommy Skarlis on working with long runs of rip-rap and rock-strewn shorelines.  Tommy says that while casting cranks along these edges is effective and the most common way they are fished, it is a time consuming presentation.   The standard way to approach this type of structure has always been to cast a crankbait, spinnerbait or other quick coverage presentation to find areas or "spots on the spot" that hold concentrations of fish and then slow down and fish these spots more methodically with a jig, live bait rig or some other finesse style presentation.

To speed up the fish finding process, Tommy trolls Off Shore OR-12 Side-planers tight to the rocks in conjunction with quick coverage style lures (cranks, spinners, spinnerbaits etc.) so that he can cover up to five times the amount of   shoreline structure as opposed to the standard approach of casting.  Every time he catches a fish, he'll note the spot by either identifying a landmark or by storing an icon or waypoint on his GPS unit.  Once he has established 5 or 6 spots, he will turn around and make a "milk run" and slow down and fish these areas more methodically.  At times the slower presentations are not effective (especially is situations when the fish are scattered) and trolling with the Off Shore Side-Planer is the only game in town.

The great thing about this style of presentations is that you can not only target fish tight against the rocks, but you can also run other lures along the bread, base of the break and on the other side of the boat to target basin oriented and suspended fish.

So the next time your arm is about to fall off  due to extensive casting, or you  feel that you are not covering enough water, snap on Off Shore Side-Planers and and let the boards do the work the "Off Shore Way". 



Sam Anderson with a few tips on running crankbaits courtesy of .When those eyes are in a dormant or non feeding state either hanging in the weeds, brush or timber sometimes they need an extra bit of enticement.  You can sometimes provoke those eyes to hit by varying the lures retrieve speed or action.  The action can be varied by using  Suspendots or Suspenstrips.  As Sam demonstrated at the the  Bass Pro shops  in Gurnee Illinois  Hawg trough there are many ways to attatch the dots and strips.  First always make sure the surface of the lure is dry you can
  1. A.    Put a strip or dot on the bill of the crankbait and the lure will slowly fall forward when stopped in the water
  2. B.    Put a strip on either side of the lure and it will fall or tilt toward that side when stopped .
  3. C.    Put a strip or dot on the back end of the lure and its mouth will slightly rise when stopped or paused.
  4. D.    Vary your retrieve to imitate a wounded minnow by twitching , moving the rod tip side to side or speed up , slow down and then stop.  While always feeling with your rod tip and making sure that you are bumping off any of the structure.  With the Suspendots and Strips also wait sometimes 10 to 20 seconds before moving the lure again and make sure you hang on tight.
E.    Remember that this product can be used over and over again as long as you make sure that they are applied to a dry surface also spend quite a bit of time checking out the action of the lure at the side of the boat so you get it to run right. 

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